THE FINISHES
To go a long way in the analysis,
I dissected several sarcastic t shirts:
one made in Portugal and two bases of sarcastic
t shirts made in India and Bangladesh (that many brands of mid-range t
shirts use by the bye).The differences are often glaring:
on the whole of this series, the first two t shirts are made in Bangladesh and
India and the last one in Portugal.
COLLAR: WIDTH AND NECK OF CLEANLINESS
It's the collar I look at first to
spot a good t-shirt. Flee facing a disproportionately wide and poorly
proportioned collar, with coarse and ultra-visible coasts. On the other hand, a
thinner collar already requires a little more developed know-how, which is not
invented.
Another detail: on the first two sarcastic t shirts, the seams that
connect the rib collar to the jersey are free. On the last t-shirt, they are
plated and we observe outside an additional border to consolidate (which gives
a more worked rendering).
FINISHES OF THE NECK OF CLEANLINESS:
We find the neck inside the
collar: it is an increasingly common finish, which is now found even on the sarcastic t shirts made in India or
Bangladesh (the ones that the marks of t-shirt then use for printing).The inside of the t-shirt is
usually very revealing of the care given to a piece. You do not necessarily
need to return the t-shirt entirely and you can for example simply observe the
junction between the neck of cleanliness and the seams.
On the last t-shirt, the clean
collar stops slightly before the seams for a cleaner look.
You can also take a look inside
the t-shirt, especially in the armpits or shoulders: all these places with
joints a little delicate which are indicative of the care given to the
confection.
GRAPHIC T-SHIRTS: PRINTING TECHNIQUES
SCREEN PRINTING
Silkscreen burns a stencil with
the pattern on a screen: each screen can handle a color. The screen is then
inserted into a press that will print the ink through the stencil on the
t-shirt. This is a fairly old technique: it is still very popular for its
durable results, with a strong contrast and bright colors and intense (thanks
to a strong deposit of ink). However, setting up print screens takes time,
especially when you have to make more than one color (the maximum is 4 colors).
Each color increases costs and production time.
To make the implementation of
screen printing profitable, brands usually produce a hundred t shirts for a
reason. Needless to say, in these quantities, many are those who opt for
low-cost virgin t shirts.
DIGITAL PRINTING
Do you see this inkjet printer
that you have at home? Digital printing is a bit the same thing but with a
bigger, more powerful device (and MUCH more expensive). Just as your four base
cartridges blend to create new colors, this technique covers just about the
entire spectrum of colors. The pattern is thus integrated directly into the
material. Quality is equivalent to screen printing (and much better than
flocking, that goes without saying).
This technique does not require a
long and painful screen installation: installation costs are therefore lower.
Unlike screen printing, there is no economy of scales for very large
productions.
Note that the best results in
digital printing are almost always obtained on white t shirts.
FLOCKING
It is done by printing the pattern
on a transfer paper, which will then be applied to the t-shirt (using an iron
or a press): it was a technique formerly widespread on graphic t-shirts, and which
also allowed better color reproduction.
With the progress made by digital
printing, this advantage has disappeared and does not in any way forget the
main disadvantages of flocking: poor durability and an unpleasant port, with
the impression of having a layer of plastic and more on the chest (which does
not help the summer).
Detail:
the mention of the place of printing
And speaking of impression ...
beware like the plague of the sarcastic
t shirts which bear the mention "Printed in Paris" if one says no
more on the place of manufacture, it almost always means that one uses bases a
little cheap made in Bangladesh or India.
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